VOÏ
Krania
Rapsani
Jason Ligas is a dynamic figure in the Greek natural wine scene. He started his adventure in the world of wine by learning from his father Thomas and working alongside his sister Melia at Domaine Ligas. However, gaining the trust of their father was no easy task. Before they were allowed to touch the grapes, Thomas insisted they had to be truly ready. As such, Jason travelled to Montpellier to study and later trained with no less than Jacques Selosse, in Champagne. Here he learnt to handle grapes with the utmost respect and care. Since then, on top of running the family estate he worked on a number of other projects across different regions of Greece, including the islands of Samos and Tinos.
Voï is his latest solo-adventure, sourcing grapes from vineyards planted on Mount Olympus. Viticulture on these poor rocky slopes is rather unique but it also carries its challenges. The higher altitude and the proximity to the sea promote ever changing winds, allowing for a series of different microclimates. Voï stands for ‘roar’ in Greek, representing the powerful and deep connection Jason has with nature by being in the vineyard and how expressive this can allow him to be. The vines he farms range from 15 up to 100 years old, mostly located within the old Rapsani appellation. Currently there are only 4 hectares of land which Jason look after personally.
From the beginning, he decided to not rely on the appellation system but rather de-classify his fruit so to work more freely in the way of farming, vinifying and establishing a more personal connection to wine making as a whole. As such, Jason farms according to the principles of permaculture.
His footprint is kept to a minimum and his ethos is very much rooted in to understanding, promoting and respecting natural ecosystems through experiencing and observing the land. This philosophy is matched by a non-interventionist approach in the cellar, using nothing but grapes, oxygen and gravity during the process.
Jason’s work is not limited to his own projects. He believes there is a lot of interest around natural wines in Greece, and that there could be a bit more work done to create the right channels and activity to share and promote education around the category. One of his goals is to create a free school which could act as a space for growers and winemakers to share experience and knowledge.
Hymnos
Vintage 2022
Style White
Region Mount Olympus, Rapsani
Varieties Xinomavro, Stavroto, Krassato
ABV 13.5%
Soils Schist, granite
Farming Organic, permaculture
Winemaking This blanc de noir is the only pressed wine from the range. Grapes come from the site Machas and Tourtoura where the goblet-trained vines are planted at 340mt above sea level with north-east exposure. The whole bunches are pressed and feed directly into 400L Stockinger and one old French barrel (from Selosse). Production was capped at 6000 bottles of Hymnso for the 2022 vitnage, 3000 of which were bottles in the spring while the remaining half was only bottle right before harvest, In this very case (second mise) the wine rests on fine lees for 12 months until bottling.
Tasting Note
Nefos
Vintage 2022
Style Rosé
Region Mount Olympus, Rapsani
Varieties Xinomavro, Stavroto, Krassato
ABV 13.5%
Soils Clay, sand, ferric rocks
Farming Organic
Winemaking The vines here are on average 80 years old. The grapes are pressed together after a rather brief maceration and spontaneously fermented in a combination of tank and barrel. The wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered after a 10 month period ageing in used barrels.
Tasting Note Each variety slowly reveals itself with hints of berried red fruits at first, evolving into more floral and balsamic notes as the wine opens up. In the mouth the acidity is lashing, albeit balanced. The finish is savory, mineral and long.
Apoï
Vintage 2020
Style Red
Region Mount Olympus, Rapsani
Varieties Xinomavro, Stavroto, Krassato
ABV 13.5%
Soils Clay, sand, ferric rocks
Farming Organic
Winemaking These grapes come entirely from the estate’s oldest site, Papous, which is coincidentally also the one planted at the top of the plateau at 400mt of altitude on slate and sandy soils. Maceration lasted approximately 45 days in open top wooden barrels and ageing carried on for 36 months in used French barrels.
Tasting Note 2020 was a rather dry and hot vintage, where it did not rain for 5 months straight and temperatures exceeded 40C for nearly a full month inthe summer. Luckily, the combination of old vines, slate soils and elevation meant for a balanced and fresh wine, which isn’t too relefective of the extreme heat conditions.
Xenios
Vintage 2020
Style Red
Region Mount Olympus, Rapsani
Varieties Syrah
ABV 13.5%
Soils Clay, sand, ferric rocks
Farming Organic
Winemaking Vines are an average age of 50 years. The grapes are spontaneously fermented in stainless steel vessels and see no added SO2. The wines is unfined and unfiltered.
Tasting Note A rustic, full-bodied and savoury red. The nose offers flavors of black currants, plum, tobacco, graphite and a touch of smokiness, supported by pleasant acidity and a good dose of umami on the finish.