KALMA
Chiaramonte Gulfi
Sicily
Creating diversity through regenerative agriculture is one of the goals of the newly established Kalma farm in Chiaramonte Gulfi, led by the dynamic duo Nikolas and Waiata. Nikolas studied enology and viticulture in Germany and northern Italy before embarking on an extensive journey with his wife Waiata, traveling through France, Spain, and New Zealand. His formative experience began with the 2015 harvest in Vittoria, under the guidance of Giusto Occhipinti of Cos. This was followed by internships at Terroir al Limit in Spain and Domaine Matassa in the Roussillon.
Captivated by the region, where “despite being in southern Europe, the wines here have a low alcohol content, which makes them very elegant,” Nikolas and Waiata decided to return to Sicily to further explore the Ragusan terroir and collaborate with local superstar Arianna Occhipinti, Giusto's niece. This collaboration marked a significant milestone in their journey, leading to the purchase of their first vineyard in 2022.
In their approach, minimal intervention in the vineyard is as important as creating diversity through regenerative agriculture. This means working in synergy with nature rather than against it. One of the reasons they chose this region is the favourable climate conditions, allowing them to treat the vines very minimally, if at all. Their vineyard work embraces regenerative practices — an established yet still not widely discussed concept. This approach focuses on creating resilience and biodiversity by enhancing the soil's microbiological life and overall health.
Kalma's production currently boasts a range of five wines: four from their 3.8 hectares and one from grapes purchased from a friend in Marsala. Among their future projects is the recovery of Albanello, an almost extinct grape variety with very few traces left between Syracuse, Ragusa and Catania, to create an oxidative wine. Perhaps a skin-contact one too. Little is known about this grape, which is not particularly aromatic but offers excellent acidity structure. While the project is still in its infancy, it is undoubtedly the beginning of something great, and we eagerly look forward to seeing the future results and witnessing the evolution of their journey.
Via del Mare
Vintage 2023
Style White
Region Marsala, Sicily
Varieties Grillo
Soils
Farming Organic
ABV 11.5%
Winemaking This is the only cuvée produced with purchased grapes. The Grillo comes from the costal vineyards of Marsala, and it is farmed by a like-minded fellow grower. Two thirds of the grapes are direct pressed and fermented in an old tonneaux, the remaining third macerates on the skins for two weeks and finishes the sugars in demijohn. Blended, racked and bottled without filtration nor added SO2.
Tasting Note A textural white with subtle aromatics yet boasting with a beautiful structure and bright energy. Notes white pears, scrubbed herbs and almond shavings come to mind.
Lifasi
Vintage 2023
Style Red
Region Ragusa, Sicily
Varieties Nero d’Avola, Merlot, Albanello, Grillo
Soils Clay, sand, limestone
Farming Organic, regenerative
ABV 12%
Winemaking Lifasi represents the core of their production and the first (and only) wine produced in their inauguaral vintage, 2022. The 2023 version is a light and juicy cuvée with grapes undergoing a 10-day whole bunch fermentation before being pressed. Part of the wine is aged in old large barrels, while the remainder matures in fibreglass tank. Bottled unfiltered, unfined and SO2-free.
Tasting Note
Heliocentric
Vintage 2023
Style Red
Region Ragusa, Sicily
Varieties Nero d’Avola, Frappato
Soils Clay, sand, limestone
Farming Organic, regenerative
ABV 12.5%
Winemaking Heliocentric is Nikolas and Waita’s take on a Cerasuolo di Vittoria - a DOCG from the area, although they do not look for the certification. Tradition has it that Nero d’Avola and Frappato are grown and vinified together. In their case, with the use of the stems and into old barrel. A 70/30 split in favour of Nero, so slightly more tannic and structured compared to the rest of the range, yet delicate and fresh compared to the average Sicilian red.
Tasting Note The nose brings elegant aromatics of redcurrants, cherry fruit and Lilac. The fruit on the palate in generous, with velvety juicy tannins and complex vibrant red fruit, lending to soft spices and liquorice tones.