FRANÇOISE MARTINOT
Chervey
Champagne
Charles Dufour has been something of an breakout success in the world of natural wine. Since 2010, he has been making wines from some of his family's vineyards situated in Celles-sur-Ource under his mother's name, Domaine Françoise Martinot.
The few hectares of vines he looks after here are planted on the lower slopes where the soils are composed of a typical blend of marl and limestone but with a slightly warmer micro-climate compared to Charles's own vines in Landreville, in the Côte des Bar.
Charles employs a biodynamic approach, quite the challenge in this region's marginal and unpredictable climate. In the cellar produces his vin clair using native yeasts, raising the wine in barrels and avoiding the use of sulphites altogether. He opts for extensive ageing on the lees to yield complex, engaging champagnes with a beautiful vinous character. We are very excited for the future of this promising winemaker whose wines go from strength to strength with each passing vintage.
Photo by LITTLEWINE
Bistrøtage B.17
Vintage NV (Récolte 2017)
Style Sparkling
Region Chervey, Côte des Bar
Varieties Pinot noir
Soils Clay, Limestone
Farming Biodynamic
ABV 11.5%
Winemaking This is vinified the exact same way as the previous releases of Bistrøtage blanc de noirs, using mostly fruit from the 2017 vintage. Spontaneous fermentation in a combination of vat and old pièces b
ourguignonnes. Aged for 12 months on lees and a further 2 after racking. Disgorged without dosage nor SO2, except for a minimal addition when the juice is pressed.
Tasting Note The extra lees ageing in bottle allows for more complexity and mark the transition towards a more gastronomic style of Champagne. This is rich, yet with plenty of energy to balance the ripe fruit notes and savoury finish.
Bistrøtage Rose B.11
Vintage NV (Récolte 2011)
Style Rosé Sparkling
Region Chervey, Côte des Bar
Varieties Pinot noir
Soils Clay, Limestone
Farming Biodynamic
ABV 12%
Winemaking A blend of different expressions of pinot noir sourced from different sites within the Vallée de l’Arce and the Vallée de
la Seine, in the Côte des Bar. The base is all from the 2011 vintage. Spontaneous vinification using indigenous yeasts and malolactic happens naturally. 70% of the Pinot grapes are pressed and the other 20% vinified whole bunch for 3 weeks. Aged for 9 months on fine lees and rested in tank for 2 months once racked. The remaining 10% of the blend is made with vin de réserve from 2010 and 2011.The final blend ages for a further 3 years in barrels before tirage. Disgorged with no dosage in August 2021 after nearly 7 years on lees in bottle.
Tasting Note Roasted quince, candid bergamot, a sweet marzipan note followed by a warm brioche finish. This is textured and rich, the perfect versatile foody Champagne.
Bistrøtage B.10 ‘Affinage Prolongé’
Vintage NV (Récolte 2010)
Style Sparkling
Region Chervey, Côte des Bar
Varieties Pinot noir
Soils Clay, Limestone
Farming Biodynamic
ABV 12%
Winemaking This blanc de noirs is made up of exclusively pinot noir planted on the same clayey-calcareous soils of the entire Bistrøtage range, in the village of Chervey. The base wine for this cuvée comes from the 2010 harvest, vinified the same way as B14 though spending a whole 10 years on its lees. Disgorged in November 2021, without any dosage. The wine only sees a minimal addition of SO2 when the juice is being pressed. No SO2 is added during vinification or bottling.
Dosage Brut Nature
Tasting Note The fattiest of the lot, this champagne offers incredible depth and finesse. Notes of toast, sweet spice and umami. On the palate is just as generous and dense with a distint sense of energy.
Coteaux Champenois ‘Vin Blanc’
Vintage 2020
Style White
Region Chervey, Côte des Bar
Varieties Pinot Noir
Soils Clay, Limestone
Farming Biodynamic
Winemaking Direct pressed whole bunches of Pinot Noir from the lieux dit Bicheret are spontaneously fermented and aged for around 12 months in old fûts. A very rare wine, made only in minuscule quantities and on optimal vintages.
Tasting Note This unusual take on Coteaux Champenois is vibrant and energetic. A little shy at first, given it enough time to open up it offers gorgeous lemon balm and ginger spice balanced by an impressive mineral imprint of the finish.
Coteaux Champenois ‘Vin Rouge’
Vintage 2020
Style Red
Region Chervey, Côte des Bar
Varieties Pinot Meunier
Soils Clay, Limestone
Farming Biodynamic
Winemaking Meunier comes from the few vines planted in Bicheret and Val Hérard, surrounded by Pinot Noir. Bunches are harvested whole and fermented over three weeks in old Burgundy barrels without stopping malolactic. Ageing lasts 9 months before a first racking when the wine is transferred to vats and left to rest for a further two months. Bottled unfiltered, unfined and (adeed) suplhur-free.
Tasting Note A light, charming pinot that shows extreme freshness and juciness despite its age. A touch of earthiness underlies the strawberry and cherry flavors, followed by remarkable peppery quality.